A Ramble Over Midgley Moor

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This is the first in a series of walks that I’m going to write about. Each walk will take in several points of interest, and more importantly, will end up in a hostelry where one is certain to find quality ale.

This walk is one of my favourites, and will take in the big sky mythical grandeur that is Midgley Moor.

Midgley Moor is pretty much unknown to folks outside of the Calder Valley, but I love it for it’s shear scale and sometimes scary atmosphere. The moor is literally strewn with ancient remains, standing stones and interesting features. I often wonder why it’s not more well known – perhaps if it was in Wiltshire it would be. It seems the antiquarians of yesteryear neglected this particular corner of Yorkshire. Perhaps the dark satanic mills hereabouts put them off.

As well as the moor, the walk takes in Lumb Falls and Crimsworth Dean, and ends up at real ale nirvana – the Blue Pig. It’s about 8 and a half miles all told, and should only be attempted in decent weather – the moor is no place to get caught out.
Anyway, the map above shows the route. I forgot to turn my GPS on right at the beginning but you get the idea.

The walk begins at the junction of the busy A646 Halifax – Burnley road and little Brearley Lane. You can get a bus from Hebden Bridge or Halifax and alight in Brearley. The path starts at Brearley Lane Top and ascends quickly through Brearley woods to the picturesque village of Midgley. Once in Midgley, turn left along the main street and right up Chapel Lane. As you reach the top of the lane the road becomes a path and you soon reach the heather of Midgley Moor. Follow the path along the little gully on the left up on to the moor proper. The first point of interest is just up ahead – the cup marked boundary stone known as Churn Milk Joan.

Churn Milk Joan With Crow Hill behind

Churn Milk Joan is the most famous stone in Calderdale – mainly because Ted Hughes (who was a local lad) wrote a poem about it. There are various local legends about how the stone got it’s name, and there is a custom of leaving coins on top of the stone for good luck. I’ve heard locals say that when they were kids they would climb all the way up here to raid the coins on top of the stone to spend in the shop down in Mytholmroyd. The stone was erected as a boundary marker in the 15th Century, but it has cup marks that may date from the bronze age.

Roughly to the east of the stone is the mound of Crow Hill – you can see on the map that I took a little excursion to have a look. It’s reported that a mysterious henge is to be found on the southern slope of the hill, but it’s very hard to find unless the heather has been burnt back and I’ve never managed to see it. There is certainly something strange about Crow Hill – it is prominent on the moor and I have a feeling it knows a secret or two.

Looking back to Churn Milk Joan

The photo above shows the view looking back to Churn Milk Joan, with the view all the way to the peak district in the south.

Moving on now across the moor, we follow a thin but distinct sheep track roughly north across the moor proper. It’s during this part of the walk that you begin to get a sense of scale, and realise that you are setting off into a seemingly endless sea of heather. After ten minutes or so a small mound should come into view away across the heather to the right. This mound is the remains of a bronze age round barrow known locally as the miller’s grave.

Miller's Grave

All that’s left of the barrow now is a litter of smaller stones surrounding a natural outcrop that seems to align with the distant nab hill near Oxenhope. The barrow though much denuded is rich in local folklore. My favourite tale relates to the name. It is said that a miller working at Mayroyd Mill in Hebden Bridge fell in love with a girl who did not return his affections. Driven to distraction, the miller hung himself, and according to the custom of the time, was buried at a crossroads just outside the village of Midgley, as suicides were not allowed to be interred on hallowed ground. After various hauntings and mysterious goings on, the villagers dug up the body and carried it across the moors to this place, well away from the village. Apparently the church eventually relented and the miller was finally laid to rest in Heptonstall Churchyard.

The next point of interest is my favourite, and is clearly visible from Miller’s Grave.

Robin Hood's Pennystone

Robin Hood’s Pennystone is a large natural boulder made of a type of local millstone called ‘Huddersfield White Rock’. Apparently this kind of rock occurs elsewhere on the moor, and it would appear that this particular boulder was dragged into position by bronze age people. We know this because if you stand at this spot on the winter solstice, the sun appears to rise straight out of the Miller’s Grave (you can see a photo here). There is small natural bowl on the top of the stone, and legend has it that it was filled with vinegar and coins by local villagers during the plague. Kindly neighbours would come up here, take the coins and leave food for the hapless victims.

Looking back to the Pennystone

Setting off again, and just to the north of the Pennystone we come to another standing stone, this one engraved with the date of 1779. This is known as ‘The Greenwood Stone’ and it was apparently erected in that year by a school party from Heptonstall who were out walking the parish boundary.

The Greenwood Stone

Leaving this stone behind, we continue along the path through a longer stretch of moorland to the north, gradually climbing to the summit of High Brown Knoll. On the way we pass a strange brick structure which is actually an air vent for a Victorian water main that runs into Halifax from the distant Widdop reservoir.

The air vent

Passing the air vent on our left, the track starts to go steeply uphill, and we are rewarded with a view over the Luddenden Valley. The Luddenden Valley is another gem, and one which I’ll be exploring in a future walk. The head of the valley is private now, and was once the setting of a very grand stately home called Castle Carr. Now demolished, the strange water garden is still to be seen, along with one of the highest gravity fed fountains in Europe.

The View Towards The Luddenden Valley

After a strenuous mile or so of following the path steadily uphill, we eventually arrive at the summit of the walk, and the third and final standing stone of the day. This one is called Wadsworth Law (I think!) and seems quite mysterious because very few people around here have even heard of it. It occupies a prominent position on the summit of High Brown Knoll, just yards from the triangulation point. This is a great place to stop for a rest because the views are stunning.

Wadsworth Law

High Brown Knoll (at around 1350 feet) is one of the highest points in Calderdale, beaten only by Hoof Stones Height (1572 feet) away over to the west above Gorple reservoir. The rocky outcrop of Lad Law on Boulsworth Hill is even higher (1696 feet), but is just over the border into Lancashire.

Looking south from High Brown Knoll

Having stopped for a rest and a cup of trangia tea, it’s time to start the descent to Lumb Falls. Leaving Wadsworth Law we join the ancient and well trodden Limer’s Gate path that leads down to the Keighley Road. Crossing the road we can see a footpath sign. This path takes us steeply down the side of Crimsworth Dean and to the local beauty spot of Lumb Falls.

Lumb Falls

There’s a new plaque fixed to a rock near the falls that commemorates six young men who were photographed here then all killed in the First World War. There’s an article about it here.

Stopping briefly to take in the scenery is probably a good idea but quite difficult as the Blue Pig is now less than a mile away. Simply follow the footpath back south along Crimsworth Dean and you will soon find yourself in Midgehole, home of the the Midgehole Working Men’s Club, also known as the Blue Pig.

The Blue Pig

If you look carefully at the photo above, you will notice that even the hedges out front are shaped like pigs. In my opinion, this is simply the best drinking spot in the World. It’s a private member’s club though so if you want to visit, please be sure to ask a member to sign you in (or irish John will get upset). Once you have gained admittance you can sample a pint of Timothy Taylor’s Golden best, my tipple of choice.

And that’s that. Remember, if you want to walk this route, take a map and compass, and make sure you are prepared for bad weather. Midgley moor is definitely not the place to get caught out. You have been warned!

Cheers!